I got bored at work and began working on this.

I figured it might be easier to find something when it is all in one big post than going through 10 pages of topics. (advanced search feature is currently not working too)

How to: 3rd brake light sticker install

How to: Activate Fog lights with parking lights

How to: Add Cruise Control to an 05-08 Matrix

How to: Add iPod to factory stereo

How to: Adjustable clutch pedal stop

How to: AEM CAI install

How to: Aftermarket CD player installation(05+)

How to: Aftermarket radio reception fix

How to: Air/Fuel ratio gauge install

How to: AMP/Radio/Subwoofer install

How to: Amp/Sub install

how to: Angel eyes/Fog light DIY install

How to: Auto dimming mirror install

How to: Axle back exhaust installation

Basic definitions for terms used

How to: Belt tensioner pulley change: 2ZZ engine

How to: Billet grill install

How to: Block heater install

How to: Caliper "Matrix" Template Paint

How to: Camcon install/Tuning(Newcelica.org)

How to: Catback exhaust install

How to: Change 3rd brake light bulb

How to: Change an O2 Sensor

How to: Change Belt

How to: Change headlamp stem

How to: Change manual transmission fluid

How to: Change oil

How to: Change spark plug

How to: Change spark plugs(2)

How to: Clean MAF sensor

How to: Clutch stop installation

How to: Compartment under shifter fix

How to: Convert Fog lights in DRL

How to: Correct rattling from outside vent

How to: Coolant change

How to: Correct fast blink after LED signal install

How to: Custom gauge mod

How to: Dash kit install

How to: Dash removal

How to: Debadge your Trix

How to: Disable 6-speed reverse beeping sound

How to: Disable 6-speed reverse beeping sound(2)

How to: Disable air bag light

How to: Disable auto stop sunroof feature

How to: Disable Seatbelt beep

How to: Door/component speakers install(genvibe.com)

How to: Door panel removal

How to: DRL disable

how to: DRL disable(no switch)

How to: DRL disable without cutting wires

How to: Eliminate annoying sounds from dash

How to: Energy Suspension Motor Mount install

How to: Energy Suspension motor mount install(2

How to: Engine cover removal

How to: EVAP vacuum hose connection

How to: Factory alarm install

How to: Filter box mod(04+ XRS)

How to: Find perfect offset for Wheels

How to: Fire Extinguisher install

How to: Fix A-pillar rattle

How to: FM modulator AUX installation

How to: Front lip removal

How to: Front turn signal bulb change

how to: Glove box piston fix

How to: Greddy Evo2 install

How to: GTS pedals install

How to: Hard cargo cover

How to: Hard cargo cover(2)

How to: Header install(XRS)

How to: Header install – DC (1ZZFE)

How to: Header install

How to: Headlight Scratch repair

How to: Hella horn install

how to: Hella Supertones install

How to: Hella supertone grille modification

How to: HID install

How to: Hood pin install

How to: Hyper Ground Install

How to: Improve/rebuild your grounds

How to: Injen intake install

How to: Injen intake install

How to: Interior glowage install

How to: Italian 139db horn install

How to: Keypad starter kill install

How to: LED backlit mirrors

How to: LED cup holders / air vents install

How to: LED cup holder installation

How to: LED license plate lights

How to: LED map light

How to: LED washer nozzle install

Lift Explained

How to: Lower an AWD Matrix

How to: Lowering springs install

How to: Lowering spring install(2)

How to: Lowering spring install(3)

How to: Lube shifter linkage

How to: Maintenance Required reset

How to: Make ground wires

How to: Make your own CAI

How to: MO.com sticker install

How to: Obtain ECU error codes

How to: OBX silicone radiator hose install

How to: Oil catch can

How to: Oil catch Can(various methods)

How to: Oil pressure/Temp gauge install(1ZZFE)

How to: Oil pressure gauge install

How to: Paint badges

How to: Paint brake calipers

How to: Paint chips fix

How to: Pcv, Iacv, Maf And Throttle Body Cleaning Guide

How to: Photoshop images

How to: Program factory keyless entry remote

How to: Properly break in your engine

How to: Properly lift a Matrix

How to: Properly use a clay bar

How to: Pushbutton Clutch-safety Ignition Switch, Option without jumping or installing extra bolt

How to: Raammat installation

How to: Rear ATS spoiler install

How to: Rear hatch cover removal

How to: Rear wiper blade

How to: Remove A-pillar

How to: Remove door panels

How to: Remove factory side skirt

How to: Remove Front Bumper And Remove Chins

How to: Removing interior trim pieces

How to: Remove paint from plastic trim pieces

How to: Remove shadows on paint after debadging

How to: Remove taillights

How to: Replace starter 1ZZFE Only

How to: Re-wire fog light switch(Genvibe.com)

How to: Rim repair

How to: Rotate tires

How to: Shift cable bushings install

How to: Shift light install

How to: Shift light install(2)

How to: Short throw clutch pedal modification

How to: Side marker install

How to: Sirius/Radar detector headliner install

How to: Sirius sportster install

How to: Sound deadening(economy)

How to: Tein SS-P coilover install(newcelica.org)

How to: Tensioner pulley install

How to: Throttle Body Bypass 1ZZ

How to: Throttle Body Bypass 2ZZ

How to: Throttle cable modification

Toyota engine codes explained

how to: Trap Magnetic Particles In An Oil Filter how to

how to: TRD CAI install

How to: TRD quick shifter install

How to: TWM shifter install

How to: TWM shifter install(2)

How to: Universal license plate mount

How to: Vinyl graphics install

How to: VSV & vacuum line adjustments after CAI

How to: Wheel painting

How to: Windshield sprayer install on CF hood

The definite guide to HID (High Intensity Discharge) lights and DLR (Daylight Running Lights) on the Toyota Matrix.
Daylight Running Lights on the Matrix is done on the low beams only and uses a 12 volt 60 hertz sawtooth wave to dim the lights so they use less electricity (about 35 watts- the same draw as HID lights). The DLR is automatically turned off and full 12 volts is applied to the lights when either the sensor on the dashboard senses dark or when the headlights are turned on by the driver. DRL does three things. It turns on the low beam headlights at a reduced lighting setting, turns the dashboard lights to full bright, and turns on the amber and red running lights.
The DRL voltage should not be used to run HID lights directly. The lamps will flicker and the ballasts will not like the poor voltage. HID ballasts are solid state transformers that produce a high voltage to the Xenon lamps so they can discharge-similar to a florescent light.
I have heard of three methods to take care of this problem.
One is to disable DRL. Safety studies have shown that having your headlights on at all times is highly effective at preventing accidents. I ruled this out. There is concern that running the HID lights constantly will make them “wear out” faster. I have had my HID on my ODY for 3 years before I lost a bulb. This was about 2 to 3 times the life of my incandescent lights. If in doubt, buy another kit.
Another way is use a capacitor to “smooth” out the rough 12 volt waveform. It may get rid of most of the flickering but I doubt the ballasts like it as much as a pure 12 volts.
The way I chose was to use a 12 volt/ 40 amp relay harness tied to a fused circuit that comes on with the ignition. Ignition is when power is applied to most of the car when the key is turned to either the accessories (the car engine does NOT have to be running) or start engine position. Once the ignition is turned on, the low beam HID lights will turn on. The lights will turn off when the ignition is turned off. This duplicates the DRL to everything except the reduced headlights.
The only real “trick” to my method is to tie the relay harness’s trigger wires to something other than the headlight socket. I cut the wires off of the plug, then stripped and tinned the ends with solder. The black wire I soldered onto the relay harness’s black grounding wire for the closest ballast. The white wire simply was wedged in with the bottommost blue 15 amp fuse in the fuse box next to the battery. That blue fuse gets 12 volts when the key is turned. I notched out a small space for the white wire to pass through the cover without getting pinched.
The two black grounding wires for the ballasts went to two conveniently placed bolts near the fenders.
That’s it. Wait, one more thing. Use wire ties to hold EVERY CONNECTION in place that is not bolted to something. I had an issue with vibration making the power plug to the ballast arc due to a loose plug causing the ballast to fail.
My HID lights and DRL system now work seamlessly together with only the cost of a relay harness and wedging in one wire to a handy fuse.
HID install with DRL still enabled

Why did I do the conversion? To be honest, my motivation was mainly for appearance, rather than braking performance. My car came with drum brakes & ABS and braking performance was more than adequate. But I have 18” rims and hate the way the tiny drums look, which is why I tried hiding them by painting them black. Even the rear discs look kind of smallish, but I’ll take them over drums!

The easiest and least expensive way to convert rear drum brakes to disc brakes is to find a donor vehicle (Matrix XRS, Corolla XRS, Vibe GT, Celica GTS) and purchase the complete brake system, including hubs, brake hoses, parking brake cables, bolts, etc. You could probably get hooked up for $300-$500, if you’re lucky to find parts at the wrecking yard, Toyota forums, Craigslist, eBay, etc.

The reason I started from scratch and acquired the parts piece-meal is because I live in Hawaii and used parts, much less a complete brake system, are almost impossible to come by. I tried to minimize costs by using non-OEM parts, where possible, and when I had to purchase OEM, I waited for the annual “Customer Appreciation” event at the Toyota parts warehouse, where I received a 30% discount.

Disc Brake Conversion Parts List
 Cardone remanufactured calipers, #19-2612 and #19-2613, $83.99 ea. @ Checker/O’Reilly.
 Caliper mounting bolts – OEM, #47715-01010, 2 @ $9.90 ea., #47715-01020, 2 @ $10.24 ea.
 Bendix rotors, #145293, $16.99 each @ Checker/O’Reilly.
 Raybestos Professional Grade brake pads, #PGD823C, $34.99/set @ Checker/O’Reilly.
 Carlson All-In-One parking brake hardware kit, #17402, $21.99 @ Checker/O’Reilly
 Hubs w/ABS sensors - you can use your original hubs, but mine were noisy, so I replaced them, #52217, $89.99 ea. @ eBay.
 Rear axle hub retaining bolts – M10-1.25, 35mm flange bolts, 8 @ $2.00 ea. @ hardware store.
 Backing plates – OEM, #46503-20070 and #46504-20070, $201.94 ea.
 Raybestos PG Plus parking brake shoes, #796PG, $41.99/set @ Checker/O’Reilly.
 Parking brake shoe struts – OEM, #47613-32030, 2 @ $8.51 ea.
 Parking brake cables – OEM, #46420-12550 and #46430-12450, $108.99/both.
 Techna-Fit steel-braided hose kit, #TOY-2200, $95/set @ Never Enough Auto.
 Brake fluid (DOT 3)
 Caliper grease (CRC)

Rotors, calipers, brake pads, brake lines, caliper bolts.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/RotorsCalipersPadsLinesBolts.jpg)

Parking brake shoes, All-In-One hardware kit, brake shoe struts.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/ParkingBrakeParts.jpg)

Backing plates, hubs w/ ABS sensors, parking brake cables.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/PlatesHubsCables.jpg)

Supplies.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/Supplies.jpg)

STEPS

Note: These steps detail how to do the disc brake conversion, starting from scratch. If you have complete disc brake assemblies from a donor vehicle, you can skip through a lot of the steps.

1) Raise vehicle high enough so you can slide underneath on a creeper. Support vehicle on jack stands.
2) Remove wheels.
3) Release parking brake.
4) Remove 2 – 12mm nuts securing brace under mid-pipe.
5) Remove 5 – 10mm bolts securing heat shield to fuel tank. Leave heat shield loose, resting on exhaust pipe. Be sure to use gloves when working on heat shields, as the sheet metal edges are sharp as a knife.
6) Remove 3 – 10mm nuts securing heat shield to tunnel above mid-pipe. Remove this heat shield, by rotating it around the mid-pipe.
7) Remove 3 – 10mm bolts securing parking brake cable to underbody and 1 – 10mm bolt securing parking brake cable to torsion beam. Detach parking brake cable front end from equalizer bar. This can be done by rotating cable outward 90 degrees and pushing up on cable end to free it from the equalizer bar. At the torsion beam mount, unclip the ABS sensor wire, using a thin blade screwdriver.
8) Carefully, disconnect ABS sensor wire from hub by releasing locking tab with a small screwdriver.
9) Using needle nose pliers, transfer ABS sensor wire clip from mount on old parking brake cable to mount on new parking brake cable.
10) Using needle nose pliers, remove 2 spring clips securing brake hose fittings to bracket in wheel well and bracket on torsion beam.
11) Have drip pan handy to catch brake fluid. Using a 10mm flare nut wrench and 17mm open end wrench, remove brake hose at each end. Use a rubber vacuum cap to temporarily cap-off end of brake hard line.
12) Remove 4 – 12mm bolts securing hub/drum brake assembly to torsion beam. Remove drum brake assembly and parking brake cable, as a unit. The wheel hub is “registered” to the torsion beam with a close tolerance fit. You may have to grasp the drum brake assembly at 3:00 and 9:00 positions and shimmy it back and forth until it breaks free.
13) To make things easier, I pre-assembled the parking brake assemblies and attached the new parking brake cables to the backing plates.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/BackingPlateAssemblies.jpg)

14) Placing backing plate against torsion beam face and then wheel hub against backing plate, install 4 – M10-1.25, 35mm flange bolts from the back and tighten to 45 ft-lb. I used “red” Loctite on the bolt threads, for added safety. Note: Do not reuse the 4-bolts from the drum brakes as they are too short @ 25mm and will not torque to 45 ft-lb before stripping. Guess how I found out!
15) Connect ABS sensor wire to hub.
16) Connect new parking brake cable front end to equalizer bar. If cable is too tight, you will have to loosen cable adjustment at parking brake lever under the armrest console.
17) Secure parking cable to underbody with 3 – 10mm bolts and to torsion beam with 1 – 10mm bolt. Secure ABS sensor wire in mount on torsion beam.
18) Clean brake rotor surface with brake cleaner and place rotor onto hub. It fit is tight, you may have to “contract” parking brake adjustment, using the star-wheel adjuster.
19) Depress caliper piston into caliper bore with appropriate tool.
20) Install caliper to backing plate and torque 2 – 14mm bolts to 34 ft-lb.
21) Apply anti-squeal compound to side of anti-squeal shim that contacts back of brake pad.
22) Drop brake pads/anti-squeal shims into caliper.
23) Install 2 – pad guide pins, 2 – anti-rattle springs, and 1 – pin retaining clip. Use needle-nose pliers to install the springs and clip.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/CaliperDetail.jpg)

24) Install brake hose, using new gaskets (copper washers) on banjo fitting. Note: Do not reuse copper washers or OEM one-piece gasket, because they get “crushed” by the banjo bolt and might leak if reused.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/BrakeLineClip.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/BrakeLineBanjoFitting.jpg)

25) Bleed brakes.
26) Install wheels, torque lugs to 76 ft-lb.
27) Lower car and test drive.
28) Have a cold one!

Before:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/DrumBrakes.jpg)

After:
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/trimovingxr/Matrix%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion/DiscBrakeAssembled.jpg)

1. Decide how much of the grill you want to block.

I tried a full grill block but on long (over 1 hr) trips the temp would regularly reach 206F and trigger the coolant fan to come on. I removed a 21 sq inch section of my lower grill block and that kept the temps warm (194-198F) but not too warm that the fan had to come on. (ambient temp was 26-34F) Normal running temps for my car were 179-182F.

I measured the total grill area on my car and it was over 180 sq in. That was way too much for the cold MI winters.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz279/m...er/GEDC0283.jpg

2. Choose a material to make the grill block out of.
I went with chloroplast which I had laying around from my belly pan.

3. Make a paper template of your upper grill.

4. Measure the size of the lower grill area you want to cover.

5. Cut your material and check the fit (trim as needed).

6. Paint to match using plastic paint, may not be needed but all I had was white chloroplast which looked very bad.

7. Attach to grill.
I used zip ties on my initial testing then moved to bolts with big washers on the back. For my latest grill block I used 1/4" x1.5" bolts with wing nuts.

http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz279/m...er/GEDC0284.jpg

8. Clean up.

9. Monitor engine temps with ScanGaugeII.

With my grill mostly blocked (I left the emblem open and 15 sq in on the bottom open) my engine gets up to temp about 30% faster. This improves my comfort and fuel economy.

So my stock battery finally died after 4 years and I wanted to replace it with something a bit lighter. After researching the options out there like braille/deka and others I decided the easiest and most affordable thing to to was to replace the factory 35 series battery with a 51R battery that older hondas and mr2s use. It fits perfectly with just a few mods to the battery hold down bracket and the battery tray. I chose a duralast from autozone because there are lots of autozones where I live and they had it in stock. This one weighs 28lbs and the stocker weighs 34-35lbs. If you look hard enough you can find other brands in this size that weigh 24-25 lbs, but I didnt really have time to shop around and have my car inoperable.

As you can see from the pic I just drilled out the factory spot weld that held the front battery clamp thing and I rewelded it farther back for the new battery. I made the bracket on the bottom for extra support but it isn't totally necessary.
This battery cost me $90 bucks, the exact same cost as the factory replacement would have been and it still has plenty of CCA.


http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l121/sno...SC_4892copy.jpg

Hello all,

My friend who is a fabricator makes Spoiler Savers for Ferrari (355, 360, 550 and 430's) which range from $300-$500 depending on model of Ferrari. So what does this have to do with the 03-04 Matrices ? ? Well like the Ferrari's, the product (as you will see below) protects the front spoiler/bumper from scraping on driveways. Instead of damaging Ferrari bumpers which can cost from $1500-$3500 to repair, this product will protect the bumper/spoiler.

When I found out about the Spoiler Savers this would be perfect for the 03-04 Matrices. As all you know we have all experienced scraping our valances more than once in our lifetime and for others....very often. How many Matrix do you know have actual holes on their valances ? ?

After talking to my friend that this will work for our cars. So he made a set and tested the Spoiler Saver for the Matrix for 2 months. Thanks to madbikes (Bally), he was the best candidate to test this out. Since he lives in San Francisco, CA which where you will find the steepest driveways, we were ready to test it. The images below shows how the Spoiler Saver protects the valances.

(IMG:http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/kokonutjc/59a9f1db.jpg)
(IMG:http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/kokonutjc/07bb1968.jpg)


Something to consider if you are thinking this in not for you.....
- The cost of a new valance can vary from $80-$95 each with no paint and no shipping cost added. Plus your valances are still unprotected.

- If you were to do a DYI and patch the scraped area. Think of the time you will put in to the DYI.....sand, patch, sand, primer, sand paint, paint, clear, clear clear and done. Now it looks beautiful again BUT again your valances are still unprotected. Looks like you might have to do this DYI AGAIN.

- What if someone drives your Matrix, 3 most things you will be worried that person will do....1st) curve your rims and 2nd) scrape your valances (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) 3rd) Hope they don't ask you for help when they move.

****************************************************************
Group Buy cost is as follows....(Note that Bally and I are not making ANY money off this)

1-9 orders is $125/pair (Shipped)
10 and above orders is $90/pair (Shipped)

**Canada and Hawaii please add $5**

So let's start the Group Buy
1. kokonutjc
2. bryantran87
3. trimovingxr
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
****************************************************************

What comes with the Spoiler Savers
Made from High strength plastic
(IMG:http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/kokonutjc/871ef7b8.jpg)
Stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers
(IMG:http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/kokonutjc/a9a1a0ef.jpg)

If i remember correctly a few people wanted to get to this light to change the bulb so here it goes

Heres the shifter:
(IMG:http://i50.tinypic.com/29b0wer.jpg)

Push The little plastic cover up:
(IMG:http://i46.tinypic.com/2hzhn3l.jpg)

Put your finger under the plastic cover:
(IMG:http://i48.tinypic.com/2wr2bs4.jpg)

And simply pop it off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) :
(IMG:http://i45.tinypic.com/i5c5ll.jpg)

And theres the bulb, youll probably need tweezers to get it off i couldnt cuz i didnt have any off on me:
(IMG:http://i50.tinypic.com/2ng7lfd.jpg)



i know its crappy pics, i took them with my phone

*i am not responsible if you break something while doing this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) *

Alright so I finally got myself into installing a smaller pulley on my TRD SuperCharger.

Tools Needed:
Strap Wrench or Fuel Filter Wrench (Optional)
Pulley Puller
Anti Seize (Optional)
Blue Loctite (Optional)
Socket Wrench


Disclaimer: I am not responsible for anything that happens to your motor or supercharger. With that have fun with the extra boost.

Before you Begin:
Automatic: Put it in Drive (Make sure your E-Brake is up)
Manual: Put into First Gear

Step One (Option 1): Before you loosen the Belt, Take off the bolt holding the Pulley with a 19MM Socket Wrench. This method you won't need a Strap Wrench. Go on to step 2.

Step One (Option 2): Go to step 2 and complete taking off partial of the belt. Once the belt is loosen, take the belt off the pulley and with a Strap Wrench or Fuel Wrench, Hold the Pulley Down. Using a 19MM Socket Wrench and turning counter clockwise, take off the bolt. Once off go to step 3.

Step Two: Follow this link and loosen the belt and take it off the Supercharger pulley.
http://www.9thgencorolla.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50831

Step Three: When the belt is off use, a pulley puller to take off the pulley. You can rent this at your local auto part store. WARNING: DO NOT USE A IMPACT WRENCH TO TAKE OFF THE BOLT OR PULLEY. I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING A RUBBER HAMMER AND HITTING THE PULLEY OFF. THESE TECHNIQUES CAN RESULT IN A DAMAGE NOSE OR MORE.

(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00234-20091121-2032.jpg)
(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00224-20091121-1936.jpg)

Step Four: When the pulley is off, get your new pulley and make sure to put it in correctly. The pulley has a keyhole on it so make sure the keyhole goes into the supercharger key. I circled the part to show you what I mean. Put some anti-seize on nut if you see rust.

(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00227-20091121-1945.jpg)
(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00228-20091121-1945.jpg)

Step Five: Most likely your pulley won't be able to go all the way in. To get it in, use the nut that came off the supercharger (Drop a little bit of loctite on). The nut will press against the pulley until it goes all the way in. To keep the pulley from spinning when you are tightening make sure to use a strap wrench or hold it firm like I did.

(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00229-20091121-1946.jpg)
(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00230-20091121-1956.jpg)

Step Six: Once the pulley is on go back to step 2 to put the belt back on.

(IMG:http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/LuNaRCrUsAdEr/IMG00232-20091121-2031.jpg)

Now Double check everything and make sure it is tight. Have fun with the extra boost.

Thanks Nate and Brian for helping me out :thumbup1:.

[Mods, feel free to move this to the How-To section if you want.]

I recently got the hood dampers from ebay (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=hood+damper+toyota+matrix) and figured I'd do a write-up in case others wanted to know what's involved. The ones I picked up were made by SOKIE TECH -- some Taiwanese brand, I think. Overall, it's decent quality. Seems sturdy enough and it raises the hood a bit higher than before. These dampers should not be used for carbon fiber hoods.

Tools needed: 10mm and 12mm socket wrench
Installation time: 10-20 mins

1. Take a moment to appreciate your new toy:
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper1.jpg)

2. At the end of each damper, there are these metal balls. Each of the balls have little pins in them. Remove the pins by twisting them first, and then pulling the straight part off. (I removed the ball ends here, but you don't have to.)
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper3.jpg)

3. Prop open your hood and start with the driver side first. Remove the bolt that's immediately behind your headlight. You'll need your 10mm socket wrench here.
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper4.jpg)

4. Screw in the new black ball with washer on bottom. Be careful not to scrape yours like I did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper5.jpg)

5. On the hood hinge, remove the upper bolt shown here and screw in the mounting bracket. Your 12mm socket wrench will do the trick. The ball part should be facing inwards.
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper6.jpg)

6. Now it's time to attach the damper. Start with the upper end. Pop on the end of the damper and re-insert that little pin from before to prevent the ball from popping off. Nobody wants their balls poppin' off, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper7.jpg)

7. Now for the bottom part. That damper won't reach the black ball at first, so you'll have to raise the hood slightly in order to get the bottom end to pop on. After it pops on, don't forget to re-attach that little pin.
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper8.jpg)

8. Repeat the same thing for the passenger side and you're done!
(IMG:http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/trixmixpix/hood_damper9.jpg)

courtesy from:

http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_cont...gest-automaker/

"The people want an empire, apparently, with that unassuming little black VW bug at the head of it.
The U.K.'s Guardian explains, "Volkswagen-Porsche has overtaken Toyota to become the world's largest car manufacturer as the German group benefits from state-backed stimulus packages around the globe." VW has "produced 4.4 million vehicles so far this year, outstripping its Japanese rival which has seen four million cars roll off production lines since January."


Ironically, VW reached the milestone in part by taking over Porsche – which it was forced to do after Porsche failed in an attempt to take over VW earlier this year.


"Of course," Autoblog notes, there is "some number play involved" in the Guardian's numbers. "We're talking about the combined entity VW-Porsche, which has built 4.4 million cars to date, which is roughly 400,000 beyond Toyota's mark. However, Toyota halved its production earlier this year and shut down all its plants in February." VW also "benefited much more than Toyota from the European cash-for-clunkers programs," though Toyota saw more sales than VW spurred by the U.S. version of the car-swap program.


The news doesn't just push Toyota down a notch. Jalopnik notes that VW has "passed Toyota and GM at the top of the heap." America's largest automaker – the world's largest just three years ago – now sits in third globally.


The change may not be permanent. The Guardian notes that Toyota "has the capacity to make 10 million vehicles a year but it expects to make seven million vehicles in 2009" as production picks back up. VW, however, may see its production increase long-term enough to stay ahead, or at least to take the title again even if it loses it later this year.


After all, Autoblog notes, "VW's also got the edge on Toyota" in the huge Chinese market, "where it has spent years introducing models."




Talk about farfignoogen! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

If a mod could move this to the sponsored sales forum it would be appreciated.

One week to move on these guys!
Supplier just contacted us that they have these on sale this week. If you want them wrapped in rubber, let me know what size you need and your prefered tire and we can wrap them before shipping them to you. Price below is for all four.

Matte Black UC with Yellow Stipe
15x6.5 10/5x100-114.3 38 230565171 $428.00
16x7 10/5x100-114.3 38 230670171 $484.00
17x7.5 10/5x100-114.3 40 230770171 $562.00
18x7.5 10/5x100-114.3 45 230875171 $633.00

Matte Black with Machine Face & UC
15x6.5 10/5x100-114.3 38 231565175 $428.00
16x7 10/5x100-114.3 38 231670175 $490.00
17x7.5 10/5x100-114.3 40 231770175 $562.00
18x7.5 10/5x100-114.3 45 231875175 $643.00

(IMG:http://neverenoughauto.com/images/detailed_images/Voxx12547975504acab0ee54619.jpg)

Shipping should only be about $50-$70 for all four anywhere in the states. If you're in Canada, HI, PR, PM me your postal code and we'll get you a price. Thanks guys!

I recently got my Technafit SS brake lines installed. It's not seriously hard, but be prepared to make a mess from brake fluid dripping. The procedure should be similar for all 1st gen Matrix. Please make sure your order the correct ones as base/xR 2WD, base/xR 4WD and xRS have different part numbers.

Contents:
-front SS brake lines x2
-rear SS brake lines x2
-screws for the front lines x2
-washers x2

Recommended tools:
-flare nut wrench
-something to contain your brake fluid

Time needed: 2 hours+ depending on experience

Procedure:
-Place your car on jack stands (or a lift if you're doing it in a shop)

-Use a brake pedal depressor or any similar object to depress your brake pedal about an inch. This will stop brake fluid from dripping out of your lines continuously

-Being with the front lines as they are relatively easy compare to the rear lines. Work on only ONE line at a time just in case you forget how to put things back together.

-Remove the screw that bolts the brake line on the caliper. Brake fluid will come out at this point
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/madbikes/DSC04260.jpg)

-Use the flare nut wrench to undo the fitting from the brake line. Make sure you keep the clip as you will use it again to retain the SS brake line.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/madbikes/DSC04258.jpg)

-Install your SS brake line starting from the fitting-end. Make sure one washer is under and above the line before you screw the caliper-end in (if you don't understand, just ask me):
Screw SSSSSSS
washer ------------
line oooooooooooo
washer -------------
caliper __________

-Repeat for the other side.

-Undo the two fittings on the rear lines. They can be stubborn sometimes. Just carefully wiggle the line when you're sure you completely unscrew the fittings from the line. Don't forget to save the clips.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/madbikes/DSC04264.jpg)

-You can now install the rear brake line. Repeat on the other side.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/madbikes/DSC04267.jpg)

-Bleed the brakes when you're done.

-Bolt on your wheels. Make sure your brake lines and wheel speed sensor line is free from hitting anything.

Hi guys, I finally fulfilled Matrix owners request, and made a how to retrofit Lexus LS460 projectors into Toyota Matrix headlights video. I squeezed everything in 10 minutes, so I hope that the video is clear. Youtube only allow 10 minutes max videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDFznlok5yA

I was changing oil in the 05 Matrix & noticed the lower few inches of the A/C condenser looking pretty ratty. But, I didnt have time right then to mess with it, but yesterday I changed oil on the Vibe & I got down & looked at the grill, pretty open design down there, too. So,I took some 1/4 hardware cloth (like screen, only with 1/4 squares) & tie wrapped it into the lower grill section.

You dont have to do it with the grill in place. The lower section Clips into the main front end & is easily removed. 4 or 5 little clips to release, no tool required, then holding the right angle releases the upper clips. About 10 small, black tie wraps will do it. I use small pliers to get them good & tight, then trim off with dikes.

When the Matrix gets home Ill have a look at that, too.

PS: I had a Honda Civic that took a small rock thru the grill & into the radiator. The cost & loss weve suffered from the damage done to the engine due to the overheat that caused was very serious.. At least the radiator is full shielded by the condenser on these. Id hate to lose the AC, tho. If the condenser is beat up & air flow limited, efficiency drops, so..


Protect the A/C condenser.

Sorry for the downtime, it has been a nightmare, problem after problem. So this is a fresh install, I am still in the process of getting everything back up for this site as well as for others. The will be some more down time but probably short as I install and restart services.

I am sure you will find issues. Please let me know what they are.